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Feed and Care of the Donkey or Mule

 for Good Health
Donkeys in New Zealand can live outdoors all year round, but should have access to a shed
for protection from wind, rain and sun. A lined cover is often providedfor extra winter protection,
but is not essential as long as your donkey has access to shelter.
Donkeys need clean water and a mineral block at all times. In most areas half an acre
of pasture is enough for one or two donkeys, because a supplement of hay or straw should be
provided throughout the year for roughage. It is very desirable to be able to divide up
the available gazing so that part can be rested and allowed to recover and refresh the grass.
Electric fencing is ideal for this - also to protect your trees. Donkeys will demolish unprotected trees.
If you have a small area for your donkey the dung should be collected, preferably every day,
to reduce the worm burden on your land and also to avoid those clumps of rank, unpalatable grass
which no donkey will eat that grow around the dung.
Donkeys like to browse and will enjoy walks with you along the roadside picking at broadleaf
weeds and grass seed heads. On the whole, obesity is more of a problem than emaciation with
New Zealand donkeys. You will almost certainly have to restrict your donkey’s grazing to a degree
that it will complain about, especially in the spring and autumn.
A dirt or concrete yard will be required if you don’t have electric fencing.
Tethering long-term is too restrictive and unkind. If you must tether on certain occasions,
always run the tethering rope though a length of alkathene so that it cannot wrap itself round
the donkey’s leg (garden hose is too flexible.)
The odd carrot or apple does no harm, but unless your donkey is in regular work it will need
no extra feed at all. Watch carefully for signs of overweight – the thickening and tightening of the
 neck or the rolls of fat along each side of the spine or around the buttocks – as even when the
donkey loses weight, these do not usually disappear.
Fences need to be secure.The stories of Houdini-type donkeys are legion and some are good at
opening gates too – a catch on each side copes with that.

Teeth
As with all equines, the teeth continue to grow throughout the life of the donkey and can
become very uneven and sharp causing discomfort and problems with eating.
An equine dentist or competent vet used to dealing with horses can painlessly file the rough
edges and remove any diseased or problem teeth. This should be done every year or so.

Worming
All donkeys, like horses, seem to carry worms and worming should be repeated every two months
 unless a faecal count shows that they are clear. Worming is normally done with a paste such as
Eqvalan (this type is the easiest to administer and the most palatable) although once a year
the paste should be swapped for another such as Paraminth which will clear up tapeworms as well.
Overseas literature associates donkeys with lungworms, but this does not seem a problem in
New Zealand and in any case they are treated by the normal drench pastes. The worm build-up
 is greatly increased if the dung is not collected off the paddock. It can become a simple part of the
 daily routine to clean up the paddock every morning or evening. The piled dung becomes
excellent compost and a tradable commodity and your paddock will remain much healthier, especially
 if you keep you donkey on a small holding with little chance to spell the pasture.

Water
Clean fresh water must be available at all times, and provided in a container which the
donkey cannot tip over.

Lice
Most donkeys seem to develop a louse population during the winter and become quite
itchy in the spring. Equine louse powders do not seem very effective, but a thorough soaking on
 a nice warm day with Asuntol, wetting every part of the donkey, will solve the problem.
The lice do not transfer to humans but they can make your donkey so uncomfortable that hew will
rub himself raw.

Feeding Warnings
Feed intended for other animals, e.g. cattle, pigs, poultry, can kill donkeys –
do not feed them to your donkey, or have them stored where a
donkey might find its way to them.
Some common plants such as ragwort, privet, yew, rhododendrons, deadly nightshade,
labernum, lupin seeds and lawn clippings can be extremely harmful.
Donkeys should never be given meat products – you sometimes have to check what the sandwich
 filling is! Access to rich pasture often leads to laminitis, an extremely painful inflammation of the hooves.
Don’t feed your donkey every time you visit - pats are pleasure enough for it and constant titbits
encourage cheeky behaviour and nipping.

Recommended Reading
The Donkey & Mule Society of New Zealand has an extensive library of books and videos available to members. A list of them is on the society’s web site.  www.donkey-mule.org.nz

The society also sells some of the best books on donkey care and management at almost cost price.

Donkey Business III      Christine Berry and Jo-Anne Kokas.  
One of the best books on training, feeding, hoof care and breeding 325 easy-to-read pages. If you are only going to buy one book this is the one you should buy.
 
The Definitive Donkey    Betsy & Paul Hutchins and revised by Leah Patton.
305 pages of clear information on care and feeding, breeding and training a good companion to Donkey Business III

The Professional Handbook of the Donkey   edited by Elizabeth Svendsden.
395 pages. Has excellent section on general care, breeding, showing and driving.

Donkey Foaling Manual, by Bonnie Gross 
241 pages. Excellent comprehensive coverage of all aspects of breeding donkeys and the care of foals. Although written for miniatures it is applicable to all donkeys. 

For cost - check the society’s web site   www.donkey-mule.org.nz